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Squash Secrets PDF Print E-mail
Written by Naomi Ross   

As the last decorations come down from the Succah and we prepare to dive into our year’s activities, I can’t help but wonder and ponder…what on earth do we do with these gourds anyway?  Not to say that their place as a Succah decoration is an unjust existence, but c’mon…what does one actually do with them?   Quite a lot, it seems, or at least so I discovered after doing some research (we love Google!).  With over 700 known species, the gourd seems to have infinite craft and artistic possibilities and has been used by people throughout the world for musical instruments, pipes, masks, canteens, water jugs, dippers, birdhouses, bath sponges and as decorative pieces with intricate etched designs. So important were gourds to Haitian people in the early 1800s that gourds were temporarily made the national currency.  But this is a cooking article, so I am clearly more interested in the edible possibilities.  Some of the most delicious members of the gourd family include squash, pumpkin, cucumber and melons.

With the return of cooler weather, winter squash is back and may just be the perfect warming ingredient, bound to qualify any dish as “comfort food” with all its sweet orange creaminess. Though Butternut and Acorn squash happen to be the most common and known supermarket varieties of winter squash available, there are many other terrific kinds worth trying - Sweet Dumpling, Banana, Kabocha and Buttercup varieties, just to name a few.  Each type has its own special flavor and texture.  Using a new variety or a combination of a few may add a new flavor or dimension to your next squash dish. 

One of the most commonly asked questions about winter squash is how to handle and prepare it, due to its thick peel and hard texture. Don’t be discouraged – a good sharpened chef’s knife and some “elbow grease” will work wonders in your preparations.  Even with that said, some prep tips are always helpful.

  • Some winter squash have a thin and smooth enough rind to be peeled with a good peeler, such as butternut or buttercup squash. Once peeled, the squash should be cut in half lengthwise, ends trimmed, seeds scooped out, and then cut as needed.  Once prepared in this way, it can be boiled, steamed, sautéed, etc. and used in your favorite dishes.
  • Other squash, such as acorn squash, have a tough enough skin and grooves to maneuver that most people would sooner bake it first.  That combined with the acorn squash’s small size make it an ideal “stuffing” squash.  Simply cut in half, scoop out the seeds, and bake cut side down at 375-400 degrees until fork tender.  (This applies to Sweet Dumpling squash as well).  Once baked, the cooked flesh can be scooped out of the skin and eaten, or used for other recipes.
  • Winter squash store very well - they’ll last the “winter” in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location (like a basement). Check on a regular basis for rot and use within three to six months.
  • Refrigerated tightly, saran-wrapped cut pieces of winter squash will last up to a week.
  • Choose firm, well-shaped squash that are heavy for their size and have a hard, tough skin. Do not choose those that have sunken or moldy spots. Avoid squash with cuts or punctures in the skin.
  • Some helpful equivalents in your squash adventures may include:
 

      1 pound peeled squash = 1 cup cooked, mashed

      2-1/2 pounds whole squash = 2-3/4 to 3 cups pureed

      1/3 to 1/2 pound raw unpeeled squash = 1 serving 

During the yomin noraim (High Holy Days), we stepped outside of our comfort-zones and reexamined our lives – what areas we became stagnate in, and the ways in which we would like to change – the door was opened to trying to new things, taking on new mitzvos, establishing a new relationship with G-d.  The time was ripe with vulnerability and openness, two ingredients crucial in our ability to celebrate the holiday of Succos b’simcha. The famous quote from Yirmiyahu “zecharti lach chesed n’uraich…” (“I remember for your sake the kindness of your youth…how you followed Me in the Wilderness in an unsown land” Yirmiyahu 2:2) was still ringing in our ears from Mussaf.  That quote refers to the “kindness” of Israel to follow after Hashem in the desert with complete faith and dependence, not knowing where or when we would go (or what we would eat!).  The simcha of Succos stems from deriving comfort not only from the “tried and true” of the past, but from the constant and ever-present security we receive today and tomorrow no matter what happens. So as the gourds come down, use their memory to capture that realization of security and dependence on Hashem.  

Here is a wonderful fall recipe bound to warm you up on a chilly night even once your Succah is down.  It may not be a marimba or a vase, but recipes like this certainly remind us to celebrate the gourd family!    Feel free to experiment and use any winter squash or a combination thereof for this delicious soup.   

 

Curried Squash Soup with Frizzled Leeks

Don’t be intimidated by the curry powder – even non-curry fans love this soup, with its subtle background flavors.  Garnishing with frizzled leeks absolutely makes this soup and is worth the extra effort! 

Serves 6-8 

2 tbsp. butter or margarine

4 leeks, pale green and white parts chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

1 tsp. salt

1½ tsp. curry powder

3½ lbs. butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed (about 8 cups)

1 medium carrot, chopped

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

4 cups water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 

Heat the butter or margarine in a large pot (at least 8-quart) over medium heat.  Add

chopped onion, leeks and salt.  Sauté until softened and onions become translucent, about 5-7 minutes.  Add curry powder and cook for another minute.  Add remaining ingredients and bring to boil.  Reduce heat to low and simmer covered for about 30 minutes, or until squash is soft. Remove from heat, cool slightly and puree with an immersion blender or transfer to food processor and puree in batches.  Season to taste with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper.  Serve topped with frizzled leeks (recipe to follow).

 

Frizzled Leeks

It is essential that one clean leeks well – they are full of grit and dirt!  Once cleaned, dry well prior to frying.  See below for cleaning options. 
 

2 medium leeks, cut lengthwise, then crosswise into 2” very thin strips. 

Canola or vegetable oil for frying. 

Pour about ½” layer of oil in a large frying pan, and heat over medium-high heat.  Once oil is hot (you can test this by throwing a chopped leek in the pan – if it sizzles upon contact, the oil is ready), add leeks and fry until golden.  Remove with slotted spoon or spatula and drain on paper towels or brown paper.  

   2 options for cleaning:

  • Once split lengthwise, swish and soak in cold water, running your finger down each layer to remove excess dirt OR
  • Chop as described above, then soak all chopped leeks in water, swish and agitate and repeat a few times until water is clean.
 
Naomi Ross teaches Cooking Concepts, courses on cooking skills and kitchen management for the Jewish woman.  For more information, visit her website at www.JewishCookingConcepts.com.  Naomi can be reached at .